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Carolina Obregón is an Assistant Professor at Parsons School of Design teaching Sustainable Systems and Systems & Society in the undergraduate program and Entrepreneurship at the graduate level. Before beginning her academic career, she worked in the international fashion industry for over 15 years. In 2014, she implemented the first undergraduate program in Sustainable Fashion & Management in Latin America at Jorge Tadeo Lozano University in Colombia. She was also an Assistant Professor at Universidad de los Andes, where her teaching and research focused on biodesign, biofashion, sustainable fashion, and textiles. Carolina is part of two startups: NanoFreeze, a patented bionanotechnology refrigeration system, and E.biodye, a bacteria-based textile dye.
Giovanna Danies, Ph.D. in Plant Pathology from Cornell University, is an Associate Professor at Universidad de los Andes. Her research and practice center on biodesign with an interdisciplinary approach to education. She has led award-winning student projects and co-founded two bio-based sustainable startups: NanoFreeze and E.biodye. In 2019, she received the L'Oréal-UNESCO Women in Science Award in Colombia.
The industrial model in fashion has led to mass production, harming social and environmental ecosystems in the pursuit of economic gain. [1] Textile dyeing alone is responsible for approximately 20% of global freshwater pollution, significantly impacting aquatic ecosystems by releasing heavy metals such as lead, mercury, chromium, cadmium, and copper, among other contaminants. [2] In this context, fashion is reimagined through living organisms that function as co-designers. A prime example of this co-design process is E.biodye, which maximizes water efficiency by enabling reuse throughout the dye production cycle, drastically reducing water waste. [3] In addition, the bacterial dye eliminates toxic waste by preventing the release of heavy metals or harmful byproducts, and it is biodegradable, ensuring that water bodies and soils remain uncontaminated. This approach to the fashion system transforms materials into dynamic resources where quality, color, and form evolve in real time as they grow.
Sustainable systems and Biodesign offer a future-focused approach to addressing sustainability in fashion and design. Biodesign is “a new discipline that integrates biological processes with design to create sustainable and innovative solutions. It goes beyond biomimicry by actively incorporating living organisms into design, fostering a symbiotic relationship between nature and technology.” [4] As the term "sustainability" has evolved into a marketing buzzword, its true meaning has become diluted, with brands redefining its denomination to suit their purposes. Teaching Biodesign and BioFashion enables students to explore tangible, science-driven solutions to sustainability challenges. Students can rethink fashion production beyond traditional methods by working with living organisms and developing new materials. This approach shifts the focus from mere marketing to creating high-performance, functional, and genuinely sustainable innovations. Integrating these concepts into education fosters critical thinking, creativity, and adaptability, equipping students to lead in a rapidly changing industry.
Sustainable systems and Biodesign offer a future-focused approach to addressing sustainability in fashion and design. Biodesign is “a new discipline that integrates biological processes with design to create sustainable and innovative solutions. It goes beyond biomimicry by actively incorporating living organisms into design, fostering a symbiotic relationship between nature and technology.” [4] As the term "sustainability" has evolved into a marketing buzzword, its true meaning has become diluted, with brands redefining its denomination to suit their purposes. Teaching Biodesign and BioFashion enables students to explore tangible, science-driven solutions to sustainability challenges. Students can rethink fashion production beyond traditional methods by working with living organisms and developing new materials. This approach shifts the focus from mere marketing to creating high-performance, functional, and genuinely sustainable innovations. Integrating these concepts into education fosters critical thinking, creativity, and adaptability, equipping students to lead in a rapidly changing industry.
Diego Hernández; E.biodye; Bacterial dye; Courtesy: E.biodyeThese teaching notes are designed to guide instructors through a BioFashion course, outlining practical strategies for delivering content, facilitating discussions, and encouraging student engagement. The course integrates biology, design, and sustainability, fostering a system- and critical-thinking mindset. A portfolio of materials was built throughout the course, and through practical exercises and the formulation of a final project, BioFashion product was developed.
The BioFashion course explores the intersection of fashion and biology, emphasizing the role of living organisms as co-designers in the fashion ecosystem. Students engage in hands-on experimentation with materials derived from microfungi, bacterial cellulose, and organic waste, culminating in creating a BioFashion product.
The objectives and outcomes of this course focus on fostering critical thinking, collaboration, and innovation in the context of design and sustainability. Emphasizing the importance of interdisciplinary collaboration, students learn how to integrate biological concepts into their design processes. They are also introduced to sustainability tools through case studies and practical applications, such as life-cycle assessment and systems thinking. Furthermore, discussions explore how biological processes can inform material innovation in fashion, encouraging students to think creatively and challenge traditional fashion paradigms. The course guides students in developing functional and aesthetically appealing materials with a strong focus on practical applications. Ultimately, students can translate their theoretical knowledge into tangible outcomes, showcasing their work through well curated portfolios.
Course Structure
BioFashion is based on learning through theoretical knowledge, which is applied in home laboratories, university facilities, FabLab’s, or community labs. This space proposes recognizing the meaning of the knowledge available in each context to be appropriated through discussion and practice.
The course spans 16 weeks and is structured around a learning process of exploration, creation, implementation, and presentation, which has proven to be a dynamic and novel approach to combining theoretical knowledge with hands-on practice. The course has allowed students to explore unexpected domains within the fashion industry while learning key practical and conceptual skills by integrating a systemic approach to fashion design, Biodesign, and biological materials. Below is a reflection on how this course has been implemented and the resulting outcomes.
The initial weeks focus on research and exploration, where students are introduced to the theoretical background of BioFashion as they begin cultivating biological materials, such as fungi, bacteria, bacterial cellulose, and bioplastics derived primarily from agricultural or food waste. Group discussions and guest lectures from experts such as Suzanne Lee, who coined the term Biocouture, Juan P. Hinestroza, Rebecca Q. Morgan ’60 Professor of Fiber Science & Apparel Design at Cornell University, and Johann Osma, Associate Professor in Electrical and Electronic Engineering at Universidad de los Andes, provide a solid foundation for students to think critically about the intersection of biology, design, fashion, and technology. Guest speakers are particularly beneficial, offering students exposure to industry experts and diverse perspectives on biodesign and sustainable fashion, ultimately broadening their interdisciplinary knowledge and critical thinking skills.
This phase encourages students to engage in in-depth discussions about biological materials, incorporating scientific protocols and experimental methodologies to create bio-based materials. Students' understanding of materials extends beyond environmental, social, and ethical impacts, including scalability, durability, and real-world applications.
Students develop an understanding of the sciences through research grounded in scientific literature, examining principles from green chemistry, biomaterial engineering, and biotechnology. They explore resources from disciplines beyond fashion and design, such as material science, synthetic biology, and environmental sustainability, to gain a holistic perspective on Biodesign.
A case study we discussed in class is Sauria. This speculative design project addresses ethical and environmental issues in Colombia’s reptile skin trade, which is linked to illegal hunting and habitat destruction. Sauria’s use of lab-grown reptile skin reduces animal exploitation by replacing traditional sourcing with in vitro production. This biodesign process minimizes reptile harm and mitigates environmental damage caused by conventional practices. While the project supports conservation goals and promotes ethical luxury markets, it faces scalability challenges due to high production costs and the need for regulatory support for lab-grown alternatives. Despite these hurdles, Sauria is an essential example of how speculative design can drive material innovation toward more sustainable and ethical practices in the luxury goods market.
Course Overview
The BioFashion course explores the intersection of fashion and biology, emphasizing the role of living organisms as co-designers in the fashion ecosystem. Students engage in hands-on experimentation with materials derived from microfungi, bacterial cellulose, and organic waste, culminating in creating a BioFashion product.
The objectives and outcomes of this course focus on fostering critical thinking, collaboration, and innovation in the context of design and sustainability. Emphasizing the importance of interdisciplinary collaboration, students learn how to integrate biological concepts into their design processes. They are also introduced to sustainability tools through case studies and practical applications, such as life-cycle assessment and systems thinking. Furthermore, discussions explore how biological processes can inform material innovation in fashion, encouraging students to think creatively and challenge traditional fashion paradigms. The course guides students in developing functional and aesthetically appealing materials with a strong focus on practical applications. Ultimately, students can translate their theoretical knowledge into tangible outcomes, showcasing their work through well curated portfolios.
Course Structure
BioFashion is based on learning through theoretical knowledge, which is applied in home laboratories, university facilities, FabLab’s, or community labs. This space proposes recognizing the meaning of the knowledge available in each context to be appropriated through discussion and practice.
The course spans 16 weeks and is structured around a learning process of exploration, creation, implementation, and presentation, which has proven to be a dynamic and novel approach to combining theoretical knowledge with hands-on practice. The course has allowed students to explore unexpected domains within the fashion industry while learning key practical and conceptual skills by integrating a systemic approach to fashion design, Biodesign, and biological materials. Below is a reflection on how this course has been implemented and the resulting outcomes.
Exploration Phase (Weeks 1-2): Laying the Foundation
The initial weeks focus on research and exploration, where students are introduced to the theoretical background of BioFashion as they begin cultivating biological materials, such as fungi, bacteria, bacterial cellulose, and bioplastics derived primarily from agricultural or food waste. Group discussions and guest lectures from experts such as Suzanne Lee, who coined the term Biocouture, Juan P. Hinestroza, Rebecca Q. Morgan ’60 Professor of Fiber Science & Apparel Design at Cornell University, and Johann Osma, Associate Professor in Electrical and Electronic Engineering at Universidad de los Andes, provide a solid foundation for students to think critically about the intersection of biology, design, fashion, and technology. Guest speakers are particularly beneficial, offering students exposure to industry experts and diverse perspectives on biodesign and sustainable fashion, ultimately broadening their interdisciplinary knowledge and critical thinking skills.
This phase encourages students to engage in in-depth discussions about biological materials, incorporating scientific protocols and experimental methodologies to create bio-based materials. Students' understanding of materials extends beyond environmental, social, and ethical impacts, including scalability, durability, and real-world applications.
Students develop an understanding of the sciences through research grounded in scientific literature, examining principles from green chemistry, biomaterial engineering, and biotechnology. They explore resources from disciplines beyond fashion and design, such as material science, synthetic biology, and environmental sustainability, to gain a holistic perspective on Biodesign.
A case study we discussed in class is Sauria. This speculative design project addresses ethical and environmental issues in Colombia’s reptile skin trade, which is linked to illegal hunting and habitat destruction. Sauria’s use of lab-grown reptile skin reduces animal exploitation by replacing traditional sourcing with in vitro production. This biodesign process minimizes reptile harm and mitigates environmental damage caused by conventional practices. While the project supports conservation goals and promotes ethical luxury markets, it faces scalability challenges due to high production costs and the need for regulatory support for lab-grown alternatives. Despite these hurdles, Sauria is an essential example of how speculative design can drive material innovation toward more sustainable and ethical practices in the luxury goods market.
Diego Arango; Sauria; Bio-leather prototypes; Courtesy: Sauria.“Students do not simply work with pre-existing materials; instead, they become the supply chain, responsible for developing their biomaterials.”
Another case study is Woocoa, an innovative vegan wool alternative made from a blend of Cannabis sativa and coconut fibers. [5] Woocoa showcases the potential of Biodesign to transform waste into sustainable, eco-friendly materials. Addressing fiber roughness with a Lacasse enzyme derived from oyster mushrooms mimics the softness and qualities of traditional wool, providing a cruelty-free and environmentally ethical option. The project also highlights Colombia’s biodiversity by repurposing cannabis industry waste, creating economic opportunities in rural areas that have historically relied on illicit marijuana cultivation. However, Woocoa faces scalability challenges, such as expanding local cannabis fiber processing infrastructure and overcoming market resistance to new fibers. Despite these obstacles, Woocoa offers a promising solution to reduce the environmental impact of wool production while supporting local economies. Woocoa significantly outperforms conventional cotton in sustainability, using only a third of the land and requiring far less water while avoiding the need for pesticides and insecticides.
“This interdisciplinary methodology—merging design with biology, chemistry, and material science—helps students develop a more holistic and unconventional approach to fashion and material development.”
By the end of this phase, students will be immersed in the sciences and systems-thinking approach, understanding the potential and limitations of biological materials in fashion. This learning process follows a scaffolding focus, beginning with the Double Diamond approach developed by The Design Council (The Double Diamond - Design Council, n.d.). This methodology guides students through four key stages as The Design Council provides a visual representation of the Double Diamond model:
By structuring their learning through this iterative process, students develop a deeper conceptual and practical understanding of biological materials in fashion and gain critical thinking skills essential for innovation. Besides, they become more familiar with the broad scope of Biodesign, equipping them with the necessary knowledge to proceed into the more experimental and applied phases of the course.
The next phase immerses students in practical experimentation within the lab, offering the opportunity to engage in hands-on research aimed at developing biological materials for fashion. Students begin by mastering essential scientific protocols, such as sterile technique, culture preparation, and aseptic transfer, ensuring that their experiments remain free from contamination. With these foundational skills, they conduct controlled experiments involving bacteria inoculation, microfungi cultivation, and bacterial cellulose growth. Through these processes, students gain technical proficiency and foster a deeper understanding of the intersection between biology and material innovation, laying the groundwork for sustainable, cutting-edge solutions in fashion design.
Furthermore, students explore bioplastic synthesis, examining methods to create biodegradable polymers from agricultural waste, starch-based compounds, gelatin, and alginate-based materials. Through this process, they document material properties, degradation rates, and potential applications within sustainable fashion. The lab workshops emphasize meticulous documentation following microbiology standards, such as observation logs, growth tracking, and step-by-step procedural recording, ensuring reproducibility and accuracy in results. These sessions reinforced the importance of scientific literacy, structured methodologies, and analytical thinking—all essential components of any design process involving living organisms. By integrating scientific rigor with creative exploration, students develop a deeper understanding of how biological materials behave and evolve, setting the foundation for their next phase of prototyping and material application in BioFashion design.
Students encounter breakthroughs and challenges in their biological material growth processes through experimentation. This experience underscores the importance of iteration when designing with living organisms, as successful outcomes require extensive preparation, controlled conditions, and continuous refinement. Students also learn the necessity of patience, as biological materials grow and develop at varying rates, and experiments may fail due to contamination, temperature fluctuations, inadequate light exposure, or the unavailability of essential nutrients and reagents.
As they progress in Biodesign, students adapt and refine their methodologies in response to unexpected results—an essential skill when working with organic materials that exhibit unpredictable behaviors. Through this iterative process, they develop a deeper appreciation for the resilience, adaptability, and problem-solving mindset required in Biodesign, reinforcing their ability to navigate scientific experimentation and biomaterial innovation challenges.
Weeks 5 and 6 focus on market analysis and the life cycle of biological products. Case study discussions allow students to analyze successful examples of Biodesign, bridging theoretical knowledge with practical applications. A life cycle mapping exercise encourages students to collaboratively trace biomaterials' environmental and social impacts from sourcing to end-of-life, fostering a deeper understanding of sustainability within the broader context of design and production.
Students explore successful market biomaterials, examining their potential and limitations. For instance, Piñatex, which utilizes discarded pineapple skins as raw material, originates from organic waste but still incorporates synthetic components in its final structure. [6] Similarly, Desserto, a cactus-based leather alternative, integrates synthetic backing to enhance durability. [7] Other examples include MycoTex, which harnesses mycelium (fungal root structures) to create seamless, biodegradable textiles without cutting and sewing, reducing material waste. [8] Bolt Threads developed Mylo, a lab-grown mycelium leather alternative, and Microsilk, a bioengineered spider silk designed for durability and sustainability. [9] AlgiKnit, now known as Keel Labs, focuses on kelp-based bio-yarns, offering a biodegradable and renewable fiber alternative for fashion and textiles. Meanwhile, Colorifix uses DNA sequencing and engineered microorganisms to develop sustainable dyeing techniques, replacing traditional chemical dyes with biopigments that significantly reduce water and energy consumption. [10]
Through these case studies, students critically assess the advantages and trade-offs of biomaterials, gaining a nuanced perspective on their real-world applications, challenges, and potential for circularity within the fashion industry. This phase provides students with a deeper understanding of market dynamics, emphasizing the increasing demand for sustainable fashion and the crucial role that biological materials play in meeting this demand. By evaluating the viability of their designs within the context of sustainability, students can refine their concepts, ensuring they are both novel and feasible. This analytical approach helps lay the groundwork for the next phase, where they transition from research to hands-on creation and material experimentation.
During weeks 7 and 8, students focus on developing and curating their portfolios. The portfolio workshops guide students in organizing and presenting their work effectively, while peer review sessions encourage constructive critique and collaborative refinement. This stage is essential in helping students reflect on their progress and strategize how to showcase their projects best.
A pivotal moment in this phase is the interdisciplinary critique session, where students present their work to a panel of designers, architects, biologists, microbiologists, and chemical engineers. This session offers invaluable insights into transforming a working prototype into a viable startup or scalable innovation. The interdisciplinary critique is particularly impactful as students are exposed to diverse perspectives beyond aesthetics, evaluating their projects based on feasibility, functionality, and real-world application.
The peer feedback sessions further enrich this process, allowing students to see their designs through the lens of others and make critical adjustments. Beyond refining their projects, these sessions underscore the importance of effective communication in design, helping students sharpen their presentation, storytelling, and strategic thinking skills in preparation for the final showcase.
The creation phase marks a significant turning point, as students apply the skills and knowledge accumulated in previous stages to develop their BioFashion portfolios and product prototypes. This phase follows the Double Diamond design process, which structures the development of their projects through four key stages. First, in the identification phase, students explore various applications of biological materials within the fashion ecosystem, analyzing state-of-the-art concepts and protocols relevant to their areas of interest. Next comes the creation phase, where opportunities are transformed into tangible ideas with the potential to evolve into fully realized design proposals. Students assess feasibility and begin prototyping their materials at this stage. The implementation phase follows, involving intensive prototyping, where value propositions are defined and ideas materialized into functional design prototypes.
Finally, in the presentation phase, the design proposal is finalized and conceived as a product that can be replicated through a well-documented protocol, culminating in the final showcase. The design thinking approach encourages iteration and refinement, helping students approach their work with an open and flexible mindset. Regular mentorship meetings are crucial in this phase, providing tailored guidance and troubleshooting support to address specific challenges.
One of the course's greatest strengths is the creative freedom given to students during this phase. This autonomy empowers them to experiment with new ideas, materials, and techniques without fearing failure. The iterative nature of the design thinking methodology ensures that students continuously refine their creations based on feedback, hands-on experimentation, and personal reflection, reinforcing the adaptability and resilience needed for innovation in BioFashion.
The final phase of the course is dedicated to refining prototypes and preparing for the final presentation of BioFashion pieces. Prototyping sessions give students the time to experiment, iterate, and perfect their designs, while structured guidance on presentation techniques helps them communicate the story behind their creations effectively.
While students are adept at presenting their ideas from a design perspective, delivering within a BioFashion and Biodesign framework requires a different approach. They must articulate their concepts using scientific language, explaining biological processes that are previously unfamiliar to them. This includes detailing the specific biological mechanisms, scientific methodologies, and material behaviors that inform their work. In addition, they need to justify the value of BioFashion—demonstrating its aesthetic appeal, conceptual innovation, and potential to challenge conventional materials that might be cheaper and easier to mass produce.
One example of this approach is the Brideology project, which introduces a biodegradable wedding dress made from corn starch, gelatin, and dandelion fibers. The project challenges the traditional idea of wedding attire by focusing on sustainability and biodegradability, offering an alternative to the wastefulness often associated with the bridal and fashion industries. By adopting circular design principles, Brideology seeks to minimize the environmental impact of its creations. However, the project faces challenges, such as preserving the bio-dress under specific conditions (e.g., avoiding high temperatures) and scaling production while maintaining the dress’s durability and performance. Nevertheless, Brideology is a powerful example of how BioFashion can push the boundaries by integrating groundbreaking materials.
- Discover – Students explore foundational knowledge on how design and biology intersect, examining scientific principles, material behaviors, and biofabrication techniques.
- Define – They analyze and frame the problem within a local or global context, identifying affected stakeholders, including human and non-human entities, and considering ecological and ethical implications.
- Develop – This phase focuses on experimentation, where students assess which biotechnologies can be integrated into their design process. They engage with biologists and material scientists to support their work, fostering interdisciplinary collaboration.
- Deliver – Depending on the project's progress, students either present a low-fidelity prototype as a proof of concept or, if their research and experimentation are sufficiently advanced, develop a high-fidelity solution that can be tested or further iterated upon.
By structuring their learning through this iterative process, students develop a deeper conceptual and practical understanding of biological materials in fashion and gain critical thinking skills essential for innovation. Besides, they become more familiar with the broad scope of Biodesign, equipping them with the necessary knowledge to proceed into the more experimental and applied phases of the course.
Research and Experimentation (Weeks 3-4): Developing Skills and Documentation
The next phase immerses students in practical experimentation within the lab, offering the opportunity to engage in hands-on research aimed at developing biological materials for fashion. Students begin by mastering essential scientific protocols, such as sterile technique, culture preparation, and aseptic transfer, ensuring that their experiments remain free from contamination. With these foundational skills, they conduct controlled experiments involving bacteria inoculation, microfungi cultivation, and bacterial cellulose growth. Through these processes, students gain technical proficiency and foster a deeper understanding of the intersection between biology and material innovation, laying the groundwork for sustainable, cutting-edge solutions in fashion design.
Furthermore, students explore bioplastic synthesis, examining methods to create biodegradable polymers from agricultural waste, starch-based compounds, gelatin, and alginate-based materials. Through this process, they document material properties, degradation rates, and potential applications within sustainable fashion. The lab workshops emphasize meticulous documentation following microbiology standards, such as observation logs, growth tracking, and step-by-step procedural recording, ensuring reproducibility and accuracy in results. These sessions reinforced the importance of scientific literacy, structured methodologies, and analytical thinking—all essential components of any design process involving living organisms. By integrating scientific rigor with creative exploration, students develop a deeper understanding of how biological materials behave and evolve, setting the foundation for their next phase of prototyping and material application in BioFashion design.
Students encounter breakthroughs and challenges in their biological material growth processes through experimentation. This experience underscores the importance of iteration when designing with living organisms, as successful outcomes require extensive preparation, controlled conditions, and continuous refinement. Students also learn the necessity of patience, as biological materials grow and develop at varying rates, and experiments may fail due to contamination, temperature fluctuations, inadequate light exposure, or the unavailability of essential nutrients and reagents.
As they progress in Biodesign, students adapt and refine their methodologies in response to unexpected results—an essential skill when working with organic materials that exhibit unpredictable behaviors. Through this iterative process, they develop a deeper appreciation for the resilience, adaptability, and problem-solving mindset required in Biodesign, reinforcing their ability to navigate scientific experimentation and biomaterial innovation challenges.
Market Analysis (Weeks 5-6): Understanding the Industry Context
Weeks 5 and 6 focus on market analysis and the life cycle of biological products. Case study discussions allow students to analyze successful examples of Biodesign, bridging theoretical knowledge with practical applications. A life cycle mapping exercise encourages students to collaboratively trace biomaterials' environmental and social impacts from sourcing to end-of-life, fostering a deeper understanding of sustainability within the broader context of design and production.
Students explore successful market biomaterials, examining their potential and limitations. For instance, Piñatex, which utilizes discarded pineapple skins as raw material, originates from organic waste but still incorporates synthetic components in its final structure. [6] Similarly, Desserto, a cactus-based leather alternative, integrates synthetic backing to enhance durability. [7] Other examples include MycoTex, which harnesses mycelium (fungal root structures) to create seamless, biodegradable textiles without cutting and sewing, reducing material waste. [8] Bolt Threads developed Mylo, a lab-grown mycelium leather alternative, and Microsilk, a bioengineered spider silk designed for durability and sustainability. [9] AlgiKnit, now known as Keel Labs, focuses on kelp-based bio-yarns, offering a biodegradable and renewable fiber alternative for fashion and textiles. Meanwhile, Colorifix uses DNA sequencing and engineered microorganisms to develop sustainable dyeing techniques, replacing traditional chemical dyes with biopigments that significantly reduce water and energy consumption. [10]
Through these case studies, students critically assess the advantages and trade-offs of biomaterials, gaining a nuanced perspective on their real-world applications, challenges, and potential for circularity within the fashion industry. This phase provides students with a deeper understanding of market dynamics, emphasizing the increasing demand for sustainable fashion and the crucial role that biological materials play in meeting this demand. By evaluating the viability of their designs within the context of sustainability, students can refine their concepts, ensuring they are both novel and feasible. This analytical approach helps lay the groundwork for the next phase, where they transition from research to hands-on creation and material experimentation.
Portfolio Development (Weeks 7-8): Reflecting and Curating Work
During weeks 7 and 8, students focus on developing and curating their portfolios. The portfolio workshops guide students in organizing and presenting their work effectively, while peer review sessions encourage constructive critique and collaborative refinement. This stage is essential in helping students reflect on their progress and strategize how to showcase their projects best.
A pivotal moment in this phase is the interdisciplinary critique session, where students present their work to a panel of designers, architects, biologists, microbiologists, and chemical engineers. This session offers invaluable insights into transforming a working prototype into a viable startup or scalable innovation. The interdisciplinary critique is particularly impactful as students are exposed to diverse perspectives beyond aesthetics, evaluating their projects based on feasibility, functionality, and real-world application.
The peer feedback sessions further enrich this process, allowing students to see their designs through the lens of others and make critical adjustments. Beyond refining their projects, these sessions underscore the importance of effective communication in design, helping students sharpen their presentation, storytelling, and strategic thinking skills in preparation for the final showcase.
Creation Phase (Weeks 9-13): Turning Ideas into Reality
The creation phase marks a significant turning point, as students apply the skills and knowledge accumulated in previous stages to develop their BioFashion portfolios and product prototypes. This phase follows the Double Diamond design process, which structures the development of their projects through four key stages. First, in the identification phase, students explore various applications of biological materials within the fashion ecosystem, analyzing state-of-the-art concepts and protocols relevant to their areas of interest. Next comes the creation phase, where opportunities are transformed into tangible ideas with the potential to evolve into fully realized design proposals. Students assess feasibility and begin prototyping their materials at this stage. The implementation phase follows, involving intensive prototyping, where value propositions are defined and ideas materialized into functional design prototypes.
Finally, in the presentation phase, the design proposal is finalized and conceived as a product that can be replicated through a well-documented protocol, culminating in the final showcase. The design thinking approach encourages iteration and refinement, helping students approach their work with an open and flexible mindset. Regular mentorship meetings are crucial in this phase, providing tailored guidance and troubleshooting support to address specific challenges.
One of the course's greatest strengths is the creative freedom given to students during this phase. This autonomy empowers them to experiment with new ideas, materials, and techniques without fearing failure. The iterative nature of the design thinking methodology ensures that students continuously refine their creations based on feedback, hands-on experimentation, and personal reflection, reinforcing the adaptability and resilience needed for innovation in BioFashion.
Finalization and Presentation (Weeks 14-16): Bringing Ideas to Life
The final phase of the course is dedicated to refining prototypes and preparing for the final presentation of BioFashion pieces. Prototyping sessions give students the time to experiment, iterate, and perfect their designs, while structured guidance on presentation techniques helps them communicate the story behind their creations effectively.
While students are adept at presenting their ideas from a design perspective, delivering within a BioFashion and Biodesign framework requires a different approach. They must articulate their concepts using scientific language, explaining biological processes that are previously unfamiliar to them. This includes detailing the specific biological mechanisms, scientific methodologies, and material behaviors that inform their work. In addition, they need to justify the value of BioFashion—demonstrating its aesthetic appeal, conceptual innovation, and potential to challenge conventional materials that might be cheaper and easier to mass produce.
One example of this approach is the Brideology project, which introduces a biodegradable wedding dress made from corn starch, gelatin, and dandelion fibers. The project challenges the traditional idea of wedding attire by focusing on sustainability and biodegradability, offering an alternative to the wastefulness often associated with the bridal and fashion industries. By adopting circular design principles, Brideology seeks to minimize the environmental impact of its creations. However, the project faces challenges, such as preserving the bio-dress under specific conditions (e.g., avoiding high temperatures) and scaling production while maintaining the dress’s durability and performance. Nevertheless, Brideology is a powerful example of how BioFashion can push the boundaries by integrating groundbreaking materials.
The final showcase event is a pivotal moment where students present their work to peers, faculty, and industry professionals. This is not only an opportunity to exhibit their creations but also a chance to receive valuable feedback from a broader audience with diverse expertise. Following the showcase, a reflective session encourages students to discuss their experiences, challenges, and key takeaways from the course. This phase is instrumental in helping them consolidate their learning, evaluate the effectiveness of their designs, and refine their critical thinking and problem-solving skills.
Throughout the semester, students cultivate an advanced understanding of scientific and design principles, enabling them to navigate the interdisciplinary challenges of BioFashion. This elevates their ability to articulate and defend their work, as their prototypes are evaluated for their aesthetic composition and the scientific protocols and biotechnological processes used in their creation. The final stage of the course highlights the importance of merging creativity with scientific rigor, reinforcing BioFashion’s potential as a field that bridges design, sustainability, and biotechnology.
The BioFashion course provides students with a comprehensive learning experience, blending theory, experimentation, and practical application. By the end of the course, students gain hands-on experience working with biological materials, develop a deeper understanding of sustainability in fashion, and refine their design and presentation skills. They also became more adept at adapting to challenges and embracing the iterative nature of the design process, learning that failure and refinement are essential aspects of working with living systems and bio-based materials.
This teaching approach fosters technical expertise and encourages critical thinking, collaboration, and a more profound commitment to sustainability in terms of material selection and the entire creation lifecycle. Students do not simply work with pre-existing materials; instead, they become the supply chain, responsible for developing their biomaterials. This unique experience allows them to understand and assess material development’s environmental, ethical, and systemic impacts, engaging with sustainability at a deeper level than traditional design education typically offers.
Moreover, the course emphasizes scientific rigor, requiring students to follow precise scientific protocols, monitor measurements, temperature, and material composition, and allow biological processes to shape their outcomes. This interdisciplinary methodology—merging design with biology, chemistry, and material science—helps students develop a more holistic and unconventional approach to fashion and material development.
As a result, students leave the course with a profound understanding of the potential of Biodesign and a portfolio showcasing their ability to turn experimental ideas into tangible, cutting-edge creations. More than just technical proficiency, they gain the ability to think systemically, experiment fearlessly, and contribute meaningfully to the future of sustainable fashion and material innovation. The BioFashion course expands their design capabilities and equips them with the vision and adaptability needed to drive meaningful change in the fashion industry.
Throughout the semester, students cultivate an advanced understanding of scientific and design principles, enabling them to navigate the interdisciplinary challenges of BioFashion. This elevates their ability to articulate and defend their work, as their prototypes are evaluated for their aesthetic composition and the scientific protocols and biotechnological processes used in their creation. The final stage of the course highlights the importance of merging creativity with scientific rigor, reinforcing BioFashion’s potential as a field that bridges design, sustainability, and biotechnology.
Outcomes and Conclusion
The BioFashion course provides students with a comprehensive learning experience, blending theory, experimentation, and practical application. By the end of the course, students gain hands-on experience working with biological materials, develop a deeper understanding of sustainability in fashion, and refine their design and presentation skills. They also became more adept at adapting to challenges and embracing the iterative nature of the design process, learning that failure and refinement are essential aspects of working with living systems and bio-based materials.
This teaching approach fosters technical expertise and encourages critical thinking, collaboration, and a more profound commitment to sustainability in terms of material selection and the entire creation lifecycle. Students do not simply work with pre-existing materials; instead, they become the supply chain, responsible for developing their biomaterials. This unique experience allows them to understand and assess material development’s environmental, ethical, and systemic impacts, engaging with sustainability at a deeper level than traditional design education typically offers.
Moreover, the course emphasizes scientific rigor, requiring students to follow precise scientific protocols, monitor measurements, temperature, and material composition, and allow biological processes to shape their outcomes. This interdisciplinary methodology—merging design with biology, chemistry, and material science—helps students develop a more holistic and unconventional approach to fashion and material development.
As a result, students leave the course with a profound understanding of the potential of Biodesign and a portfolio showcasing their ability to turn experimental ideas into tangible, cutting-edge creations. More than just technical proficiency, they gain the ability to think systemically, experiment fearlessly, and contribute meaningfully to the future of sustainable fashion and material innovation. The BioFashion course expands their design capabilities and equips them with the vision and adaptability needed to drive meaningful change in the fashion industry.
Notes: BioFashion
[1] Kate Fletcher, and Mathilda Tham, Fashion Action Research Plan (2019).
[2] Kirsi Niinimäki., Greg Peters, Helena Dahlbo, Patsy Perry, Timo Rissanen, and Alison Gwilt, “The environmental price of fast fashion,” Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1, (2020): 189–200.
[3] E.biodye. (n.d.). Mysite. https://www.ebiodye.com (Retrieved March 12, 2025).
[4] William Myers, “BIODESIGN: Nature + Science + Creativity,” Thames & Hudson (2012).
[5] Katherine Sullivan, “Meet Woocoa—A New “Wool” Made from Coconuts and Other Plants,” PETA, (2018). https://www.peta.org/blog/peta-cosponsors-global-biodesign-challenge-help-discover-vegan-wool/
[6] C. Dela Cruz, “Piñatex: Sustainable leather alternative made from pineapple leaf fibers,” Ananas Anam, (2016). https://www.ananas-anam.com/
[7] DESSERTO, (n.d.) (Retrieved March 12, 2025). https://desserto.com.mx/home
[8] MYCOTEX by NEFFA | HOME. (n.d.), (Retrieved March 12, 2025). https://neffa.nl
[9] Bolt | Material Innovation for Sustainable Beauty, Bolt, (2015). https://boltthreads.com/
[10] Colorifix, (n.d.), (Retrieved March 12, 2025). https://www.colorifix.com/
Issue 15 ︎︎︎
Fashion & Southeast Asia
Issue 14 ︎︎︎
Barbie
Issue 13 ︎︎︎ Fashion & Politics
Issue 13 ︎︎︎ Fashion & Politics